When I wear this Reversible C2C Prayer Wrap I feel enveloped in warmth and hugged in comfort.
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This wrap-cardi is such a wonderful piece that provides warmth and comfort. If you know anything about prayer wraps, you know they are made to provide the recipient with some measure of encouragement. The Prayer Shawl Ministry is a good place to learn about prayer wraps/shawls.
The process of designing this wrap-cardi was borne out of curiosity. Ever since I learned to make the Corner to Corner Crochet stitch technique, I have often wondered what it would be like to combine the C2C with another kind of stitching. I am not disappointed at the result.
Everything about this wrap-cardi was experimental for me. As you can see, there are four different stitch designs on this wrap. Each adding their own unique aesthetic to the overall outcome of the piece. This also makes the wrap a reversible wear.
This wrap is not just great for comfort and encouragement, it is excellent for a stroll on cool evenings or when you need a layering for a simple outfit. It can go with dresses, skirts, pants and others.
Purchase a printable version of this pattern on Ravelry, Etsy or LoveKnitting
The Inspiration
I always love to give credit for anything I design that was inspired by something in particular.
Sometime in 2018 I was in a boutique and I saw a lovely wrap that you could put your arms through, I was captivated and fasinated by it. Alas, I could not afford it then. So I took some photos and a bit of time to study it and I said to myself “I will crochet this”.
I started it soon after but realised halfway the yarn I was using felt bulky for the design and would also not be enough. So I ‘abandoned’ it for a while. But my nagging subconcious would not let me forget about it. And now, it is done.
The Yarn
After my first attempt at using a bulky yarn for this design, I figured a DK weight might be better. I wanted the wrap to be warm but not bulky, and I also wanted it to have a nice drape.
Having had a desire to use Paintbox yarns for a long while I decided now would be a good time to try it. I love their colourful array of yarns and how they mix kits. But I needed to use only one colour for this wrap, if I made this again, I would use a brighter colour like purple or dark green. You can check out some of their colour combos
Paintbox Simply DK, which is used for this pattern, is a squishy soft yarn, has a bit of “hair” to it; which made me skeptical about the end result. But I can say now that I love the end result of the wrap-cardi. It has a lovely drape, it is not itchy on the skin and it is so warm. And the stitch definition is just wonderful!
How this wrap-cardi is made:
This wrap is mainly a one size fits most. The only part where adjustment is made is the arm. To help you easily understand this pattern, I have divided it into 5 parts. The C2C Triangles, The Body, Joining, The Arms and Edging.
Finished size of body : approx. after blocking
21 inches wide (including arms) by 66.5 inches long (excluding fringes)
Gauge:
7 rows of C2C= 4 inches / 3 row repeats of body of wrap= 4″
You’ll need:
Stitches/Abbreviation
Notes:
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See the chart here. Make two C2C Triangles, end one of the triangles on Row 2 from Part 2 below.
After making the second Triangle, DO NOT break yarn, continue to Part 2 of the pattern.
If you will be using a Medium 4 weight yarn, you can stop your C2C triangles at row 28. It will work the same way as long as the C2C ends in an even number of rows. Bear in mind that you will have less than 90 stitches across the row.
How to Start Part 2
Row 1: Slip stitch in 3 sts, SC in Ch 2 space *in next 3 stitches, DC, HDC, SC. Skip Ch 2 space. Repeat from * across. 2HDC in last Ch 2 space. Ch 1, turn – 90
Row 2: 2HDC in 1st st. HDC in 87 (81 if you made 28 C2C rows), HDC2tog in last 2 sts. Ch 1, turn – 90
Row 3: DC2tog in next 2 sts., *DC in next, HDC around DC, skip next st. Repeat from * across till last 2 sts, DC in next, HDC around DC, DC in last st. ch 1, turn – 90
Tip: in the next row make your DCs in the skipped stitch from row 3
Row 4: 2DC in 1st st, HDC in next. *DC in next st on row 2 (st directly under the skipped st on Row 3), HDC in next. Repeat from * across till last 2 sts, DC2tog. Ch 1, turn
Row 5: DC2tog in next 2 sts., *DC in next, HDC around DC, skip next st. Repeat from * across till last 2 sts, DC in next, HDC around DC, DC in last st. ch 1, turn
Row 6: 2HDC in 1st st, *HDC in next, HDC in space. Repeat from * across till last 2 sts, HDC2tog. Ch 1, turn
Row 7: DC2tog in next 2 sts., *DC in next, HDC around DC, skip next st. Repeat from * across till last 2 sts, DC in next, HDC around DC, DC in last st. ch 1, turn
Rows 8-99: repeat rows 4-7 Twenty three times (stop at Twenty two times if using Medium 4 yarn)
Row 100: repeat row 6.
Row 101: repeat row 7
Row 102: repeat row 4. *no matter how many rows you decide to make, the last row should be a repeat of Row 4
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Use stitch markers to hold the wrap to the triangle, this will help you match stitch to stitch.
Lay your pieces flat and sew by going through both loops on each side in a round manner. This is called an Overcast Stitch Seam
This is in two sizes. M for wrist size 6-6.5″ and (L for wrist size 6.5-7.5″ ). The larger size is reflected in parenthesis
Measure the wrap from each side at 14 inches. Make 2 SC in one row, 1 SC in next row. For the C2C rows, make 2 stitches in one tile, skip the spaces. Do this also when making the Reverse SC for the edging.
Row 1: join yarn in st, SC evenly across. Ch 1, turn
Row 2: DC into each st. across. ch 1, turn
Tip: make your SCs between the DC posts, not into the two loops
Row 3: SC across. Ch 1, turn
Rows 4- 31 (35): repeat rows 2 and 3
Fold the piece so that the last row aligns with the first row, Slip stitch through base of 1st row
This part is worked in a back and forth round.
Round 1: Ch 2, DC in each stitch around. You will have 31 (35) in the first round. Join in Ch 2. Turn
Round 2: Ch 2, FPDC around 1st DC, *DC in next, FPDC around next. Repeat from * around ending with FPDC. Join in Ch 2. Turn
Round 3: Ch 2 , DC in 1st st, *FPDC around next, DC in next. Repeat from * around ending with DC in last st. join in Ch 2. Turn
Rounds 4-7: repeat rounds 2 and 3. Finish off, weave in ends.
Join the other end as well and repeat cuff
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As this wrap is reversible, you can start on any side.
Make Reverse SC at the top and bottom of wrap, skipping the arms. Leave the C2C sides for fringes.
Wet blocking your piece is not that necessary, but to smooth out your wrap and give it a nice drape, it is recommended
Due to the width of the prayer wrap, you may need to fold it in half to lay flat. However if you have a longer mat and enough pins to go round, block without folding it.
Meaure your fringes at 12 inches. Use 2 strings on each C2C tile. See a tutorial on How to Add Knotless Fringes.
Enjoy your Reversible Prayer wrap. Don’t forget to use the share buttons to tell your friends too. Thank you!
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View Comments
Hi Rose, I love the pattern but I can’t figure out how you get a rectangle out of a triangle. If I increase on one side and decrease on the other, woud I not always have a triangle? I’ve started over 3 times, watched the video but still can’t figure it out. I must be doing something wrong, but don’t know what. Thank you for your help.
You'd be attaching the triangle to the rectangle, which is done with a slant. It looks like this is being done corner-to-corner style, which is normally used to create a square. Instead of finishing off to make the square, she's either continuing to add length (the slanted rectangle) or going only half way with the triangular pieces. You'll then sew those triangles onto the slanted rectangle, one triangle on each end, to create a true rectangle. Part 3 - Joining has the best picture to illustrate how it's being put together as you can see how the slanted rectangle becomes a straight-edge rectangle once the triangular piece is attached. Part 5 Blocking is another good demonstration of how it becomes a true rectangle. Hope that helps, sorry I'm a year late!
This is a beautiful shawl (and the lady modeling it too). Thank you for this item. God bless you and yours bunches.
Thank you for your kind words. Amen.
Hi Rose
I’m on the shawl. So for the c2c triangle I’ve stopped at 28. ON the main ain’t body I have 84 stitches being 27*3 + 3. Is this in order?
This is my first c2c project and was wizzing though and missed the note that said chain 5 and 2 instead of 6 and three. Does that mean I was supposed to be doing hdc instead of dc?
You are doing it right. The reason for the Chain 2 and 2 instead of Chain 6 and 3 is to minimize the spaces between each C2C block.
I would like to see the video. I'm on another project now, but this is interesting and lovely.
This is a very pretty shawl! I love how you added the sleeves. I will be making this shawl and I will post a pic when it's finished. God bless you and thank you for this pattern.
Amen. I would certainly love to see your version. Thank you so much for sharing your thoughts.
Pls post a video tutorial for this design. I want to make this wrap. I cannot make out with written steps. Pls help.
Was a Video ever made for this? I am having trouble understanding Part 2 - The Body, Row 3: HDC around DC.
Yes. Please search LoopinglyMade on Youtube.
Yes, there is now a demo video for this pattern on youtube- please serch reversible c2c prayer shawl.
I will. Please be signed up to our newsletter so you know when the video goes live. Thank you.
Hi there. I was wondering why the turning chain of the C2C is different from the other squares. Just curious. This is a beautiful shawl by the way.
This is so that there is less space between each block. You know, chain 3 will give a wider space than chain 2. It is just preference.
HELP!!! I have ripped out row 1 more times than I care to count. Not sure what I am doing wrong. I have 30 C2C in my last row. If I do slp st in 3, then sc I chain 2 sp, then 3x29 in remaining =87, and 2 hdc in last ch 2 sp that gives me 91 not 90! What am I doing wrong. Thank you I am determined to get this!!!
Hello Janet, sorry you're having trouble with that. I'm not sure where you're having trouble, your calculation up there should be right- 3x29=87+1st SC in Ch 2 space of 1st block+ 2HDC in ch 2 space of last block= 90. Maybe, just maybe you are making an extra stitch in a Ch2 space?
i wasn't too make this for my mother-in-law who is a bigger woman so you have any suggestions on how i can make a larger size
Hello. Yes, it is easy to make it bigger. You can do this in two ways-1,use a heavier weight yarn like medium 4 or use a DK as in the pattern and increase the rows on the C2C triangle- be sure to ennd the row on an even number. This triangles in this pattern end at row 30, so you can make yours row 34 or 36. Then follow the pattern for the body, increase the number of rows for the arm as well, and you should have a bigger wrap. I hope this helps and I would love to see your wrap if get around to making it. Thank you.