Freedom Cardigan- Free Filet Crochet Pattern with Red Heart its a wrap yarn

The Freedom Cardigan is a work born of heart, faith and patience. This is a very personal project that has taken me the longest time to complete; just because I was meticulous about it- the design and pattern writing.

You can purchase a PDF on Etsy or Lovecrafts

If you are not inclined to any faith or are aversed to any, I would like for you to keep an open mind about what the cross symbolises to me. This is the most personal and vulnerable post I have ever shared.

Not many of my designs have been borne from a need that expresses my core. Some, like the Fidget Blanket for Alzheimer’s, was borne from external circumstances that my spirit resonated with and I felt a need to make it.

This Freedom Cardigan was borne from my inside, my soul. For a while, I have struggled in my faith. I had questions about who I am and why I was still struggling with a darkness I thought I had long conquered.

The cross on this cardigan is not a religious emblem, for me it symbolises the sacrifice and surrender of one man for the lives of many. As I crocheted the Freedom Cardigan, I knew that all the struggle was because I had diverted my attention from the one source that made me whole- Christ.

I had to come to a place of surrender; where I laid (still laying) all the darkness down, and sacrificing the distractions so that I can enjoy the freedom for which Christ came, to live the life my creator has blessed me with without feeling overwhelmed and in a constant state of struggle.

Is there something you’re struggling with? I hope you find the freedom you need.

The Freedom Cardigan is such a lovely design in drape and comfort. Having tomboyish tendencies, I like how it makes me feel so feminine. Even though this is a perfect summer wear, it can be worn in cooler months over a fitted sweater, you know, just for that extra style.

Construction

The Freedom Cardigan is made in a similar manner as the Open Waves top. You make the back panel first, then the front right panel and the front left panel.

I mentioned up there that it took me the longest time to make, say 4 weeks (excluding pattern writing and sizing). That’s because I had many other concerns to attend to on the blog and my home. If you were to make this and dedicated a good amount of time to it daily I think you can complete it in 3 weeks or less.

The pattern follows a chart; which is way easier than following written words. However there are written instructions to guide on several rows and the final parts.

I would say this is an intermediate crochet pattern. You need to be quite familiar with the Filet Crochet stitch technique to make this pattern. If this is an area you are new to and you’d like to give this pattern a try, see this detailed tutorial.

The Yarn

To date, Red Heart it’s a wrap yarn is the thinnest yarn I have worked with. I never thought I’d have the patience for such thin yarn. But I loved working with this yarn and if I got the opportunity, I would work with it again. I think I would make a wrap/shawl or tunic this time.

It’s a wrap yarn is a super fine yarn that you need patience to work with. Patience, that is worth it once you see the final results because the colours are so lovely and the thinness provides a wonderful drape. It is made from two fiber contents; cotton (50%) and acrylic (50%) – so it has a balance in stretch and sturdiness. Add the filet crochet technique and you have a super stretchy fabric.

I keep harping on patience because thin yarn can be a challenge to work with if it is not one you use frequently.

Another thing I love about Red Heart it’s a wrap yarn is the way the colours are arranged. Each colour is tied to the other, which makes it super easy to separate and use as you please.  From the photo I think it’s clear where to change colours on the cardigan.

You need to be careful with the yarn to ensure it does not tangle. Gosh, I had a couple of frustrating moments untangling this yarn.

With one ball you can make XS and S/M sizes of the Freedom Kimono.

Customization

The good thing about the Freedom Cardigan is that it is easy to customize. With the mathematics below, you can decide to use a sport or DK weight yarn. All you need do is determine how wide you want your back panel to be.

The Freedom Cardigan is divided in 3 parts- the filet crochet left, the middle (crosses) and the filet crochet right.

Filet crochet left and right should be in multiples of 3. This multiple counts the blocks.

The middle (crosses) should be in multiples of 21+ 16.  This multiple counts the stitches and chains NOT the blocks.

Left and Right (each) – 3 X 15= 45. So, 45+45= 90 blocks on both sides

Middle (crosses)- 21 X 4=84 + 16= 100. This gives us 5 crosses (what we used for size S/M in the photos)

Final number of Starting chains/ foundation stitch for size S/M- 45 + 100 + 45= 190

A little heads up

If you prefer more or less crosses use the formula above and multiply with bigger or smaller numbers. If you’re using a heavier yarn weight like sport or DK and you want the same number of crosses, you can lessen the number of the filet spaces on the left and right sides.

If your cross multiples is an even number, use the table guide to mark your neckline.

Blocking or No?

Even though I had intended to, I did not block this piece. All I did was stretch it with my hands. If you will block your cardigan, it should be before seaming the sides.

You’ll need:

• 1 (1, 2, 2) Ball Super Fine, 1, yarn (In this pattern, Red Heart it’s a wrap, 1100 yds/1006 mtr).   
•  Colour- Action
• 4mm & 3.5mm hooks
• Tapestry Needle

Stitches/Abbreviation

• FDC- foundation double crochet. See this tutorial
• SC- single crochet
• DC- double crochet
• FC- filet crochet- check this FC tutorial if you’re new to the technique
• CH- chain
• ST- stitch
• RS- right side
• WS- wrong side

Gauge: 8 blocks of filet crochet = 3.9 inches (unstretched)

Notes:

• Pattern uses U.S terms
• This pattern follows a chart, with written directions to guide
• Start your rows with Chain 4, this stands as 1 DC and 2 chains, and make your last stitch in the top of chain 2
• Use stitch markers at specific points throughout
• The last stitch of the block on the right side is the first stitch of the middle (cross) part.
• Pattern is written with larger sizes in parenthesis

Important Tips/Info

• Use stitch markers all the way. They’re a great guide.
• If using the same yarn as this pattern or any other yarn colour combinations, always tie the new colour into the stitch first before continuing your work. Since this is Filet crochet, it is almost impossible to weave in tails through open blocks.
• In line with the above, leave a long enough tail so that if you have a tail from another colour, you can tie them together (twice) before carrying along or snipping (this will happen when you’re making the final edging for the front of this kimono
• Always check your work to make sure you have not skipped any blocks. In the spirit of freedom and disclosures, I missed a block in the 12^th row on the back panel, I did not realize this till I was almost done with the back panel. Imagine my chagrin, but I am so thankful it did not disrupt the entire pattern. Otherwise, it would not have seen the light of day.
• You may notice from the photos somewhere at the neckline of the kimono I made an experiment with a shorter stitch that did not quite work out. Please ignore that, as it is not reflected in the pattern.

You can purchase a PDF on Etsy or Lovecrafts

Save it to Pinterest here

Add it to your Ravelry queue here

Freedom Cardigan- Free Filet Crochet Pattern with Red Heart it’s a wrap yarn

I strongly recommend starting with a Foundation stitch for this pattern. Starting chains can be hard to keep track of as the possibility of missing a chain at the beginning of the first row is likely.

See size charts here XS- 2XL/3XL,S/M-L/XL.

Use table below for guide:

Sizes	XS	S/M	L/1XL	2XL/3XL
Bust (inches)	28-30	32-38	40-46	48-52
Row 1 Foundation stitch	178	190	211	223
Number of Filet crochet blocks on either side	43	45	45	51
Number of Cross repeat in the middle (across)	4	5	6	6
Number of cross repeat on back panel (rows)	4	5	5	6
Number of cross repest on front panel	3	4	4	5
Armhole length	10	10.5	10.5	11
Seam width	2.5	2.5	2.5	2.5
Mark neckline between	2nd and 3rd  crosses	2nd  and 4th crosses	3rd and 4th crosses	3rd and 4th crosses

BACK PANEL

Row 1: start with your foundation stitch.

Rows 2-11: Filet crochet. Insert stitch markers in the stitches that separate the left, middle and right.

Rows 12-20: Crosses

Rows 21-23: Filet Crochet

Rows 24-59 (71, 71, 83): Repeat rows 12-20 and 21-23 three (four, four, five) more times

Rows 60 (72, 72, 84) -62 (74, 74, 86): Filet crochet. DO NOT snip yarn. Mark the neckline as guided in the table. You should have 17 blocks between for size S/M and 12 blocks for the other sizes. (see photo below), continue to make the right front panel.

RIGHT FRONT PANEL

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Rows 63 (75, 75, 87) – 68 (80, 80, 92): Filet crochet. Mark the CROSS points that mirror that of the back panel.

Rows 69 (81, 81, 93) – 77 (89, 89, 101): Cross

Rows 78 (90, 90, 102) – 101 (126, 126, 149): repeat the sequence of 3 rows Filet crochet, 9 rows of crosses- two/three/three/four more times.

Rows 102 (126, 138, 150) – 123 (147, 147, 171): Filet crochet . Turn

Row 124 (148, 148, 172):  Ch 2, *2DC in space, DC in DC. Repeat from * across.  DO NOT break yarn. Turn.

Working on the side (with 3.5mm hook)

Row 1: Ch 1, 2SC in first DC, 2SC in each space across, 2SC in last DC. Ch 1, turn

Row 2: SC in 2 sts, 2SC in each space across, SC in last 2 sts, chain 1, SC across bottom of DCs.

This side facing you now is the RS of your work.

LEFT FRONT PANEL

Insert hook in stitch to begin left panel. Follow chart and repeat cross sequence till last row of DC

Row 124 (148, 148, 172):  Ch 2, *2DC in space, DC in DC. Repeat from * across.  DO NOT break yarn.

Rows 125 (149, 149, 173): Ch 1, SC across bottom of DC. Snip yarn.

Working on the side (with 3.5mm hook)

Row 1: starting from the side of back panel with WS facing you, insert hook in DC, Ch 1, 2SC in first DC, 2SC in each space across, 2SC in DC, SC in last SC. Ch 1, turn

Row 2: SC in next 3 sts, 2SC in each space across, SC in last 2 sts, continue to the bottom of back panel. Ch 1, SC in each DC across, SC in last st. Snip yarn, weave in ends.

Front Edging (with 3.5mm hook)

Tip: remember to tie all tails and carry along on row 1

Row 1: with RS facing out, from bottom of right front panel. Join yarn in stitch, Ch 1, SC in stitch, 2SC in next DC, 2SC in each space across, (skip all DCs at the neckline), to other side of left front panel. Turn

Row 2: Ch 1, SC in each st, across. Ch 1, turn

Row 3: DC in each st across. ch 1, turn

Rows 4-5: SC in each st. across. Snip yarn, weave in tails.

If you intend to block, this is the point to do that.

Seaming (with 3.5mm hook)

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With RS facing out, measure armhole and seam width (see table for guide), place stitch markers through back and front filet blocks. Also place stitch markers at the bottom of cardigan, leaving 4 blocks open.

Please ensure that your blocks align- if you will seam from the 6th block in the front, you should also seam from the 6th block at the back.

Seam from the inside, you can start from top or down. Hold blocks from back and front, join yarn, make 2SCs in each space up to the next stitch marker. Snip yarn leaving long tails to weave in.

Repeat seaming for the other side. Snip yarn. Weave in all tails.

I truly hope you enjoyed making this cardigan, and I hope you find the freedom to enjoy the best of life.

Share your version with me with #freedomcardigan on Instagram or tag loopinglymade on Facebook. Thank you!